1. The Ultimate Refreshment?

Will Self ponders the origins of our insatiable thirst for bottled waters.

How did mineral water become such a valuable commodity and is it a luxury the world can no longer afford?

Will's a confirmed fan of mineral water - yet he's puzzled by its enduring appeal when H2O flows freely from the tap.

Over five episodes, he investigates the history of five different mineral waters and the spa towns from which they spring. He's joined by 'water sommelier' Martin Riese who believes that mineral water should be regarded as a connoisseur product, just like wine. Riese serves 20 varieties of mineral water in his boutique hotel in Los Angeles.

Today, the story of Perrier, which comes from the south of France and sold 1.6 billion bottles in 2019. Perrier was first marketed by Englishman St John Harmsworth who bought up the spring in 1903.

Will investigates why Perrier took the world by storm and asks Nestlé, the brand's current owners, what they're doing to address widespread concerns about the environmental impact of their product.

Producer: Laurence Grissell

First broadcast on BBC Radio 4 in February 2021.

(Photo credit: Luther Self)